Late to the doga party

Today I googled "dogs and yoga." I was not expecting this.

Not as ludicrous as it may seem though. From time to time I break out the yoga mat at home. If Alex is in the room with me, he'll usually just watch from the couch. But from time to time, he'll join me on the floor and put my downward dog to shame. Other times he lays on the mat behind me, or licks me during corpse pose. Let me tell you, it is very, very hard to stay focused on your own breath when an 11-year old poodle mouth is exhaling on your face.

Inspiration #1

via Le Bouton Studio

Lisa's work and aesthetic sensibilities are incredible. These are clothes that I can imagine spending my life in. I just ordered this sundress, in gray. But I would also very much like to have the linen dress pictured above, in that gorgeous indigo.

And this is a house we can imagine spending our life in.

House in El Bolson, Patagonia, Argentina. via miller-david.com

Skirt muslin #1

Well, I made the first muslin! And I'm so glad I did rather than cutting into the $20/yd linen. Whether out of laziness or blind faith in the pattern and my sewing abilities, I used to never make muslins, which is why I think sewing from patterns was so frustrating. But a few years ago I went to a big geeky sewing conference in Toronto and they hammered into us that even the most skilled designers always make a muslin -- and usually at least two or three.

As careful as I was about taking my measurements, I definitely underestimated my hip measurement by a half an inch. I also thought I could get away with a straight waistband but because of the difference in my waist and hip, and probably because I want such a wide band, I'll need to make a curved waistband. Working with a muslin also allowed me to better gauge where I wanted the waist to sit, where it should fall, and the proportions on my frame. Despite the adjustments I need to make, I'm pretty happy with the overall look of the skirt. The A-line shape is streamlined and flattering but also comfortable. The waist in the pic looks big because my dress form is in better shape than I -- It's got like a 24" waist!

I also had a change of heart on the lining fabric. Instead of the pear print, I'm using a wolf print cotton that I bought during the road trip I took with Danny and Alex to New Mexico (same road trip where Alex is pictured above, in the Great Sand Dunes of Colorado). The wolf print seems to better fit my mood these days, maybe because we're so itching to get back to wandering on the road. This'll be a good skirt to wander in.

Next steps....

Adjust measurements on pattern: add 1/2" to skirt width, especially at hip (about 6" down from waist). Hip needs to be 37.5" finished.

Design adjustments:

Waistband - make it 2" wide and curved, 30" at top of band, 32.5" where waist meets skirt. Make overlap for button holes -- need to make this adjustable since my waist seems to change daily.

Skirt length - 22.5"

Pockets - gonna have go with side seam. The hip curved pocket looks a bit more difficult than it's worth, plus I'm not sure I want to add that much bulk.

Pattern progress!

My mother-in-law came up for a weekend of bread pudding & bacon from Formaggio Kitchen and some fabric shopping. We went to Fabric Corner in Arlington, which is having a great sale this month. I was much more restrained than usual; only bought some olive green linen for the a-line skirt (plus the Kaffe Fasset & otter fabric that Cathy and I are sharing; forget birds, put an otter on it).

Olive linen, Scandinavian-esque cotton, my very own pattern

Japanese linen chambray from Lin-net

Last night and tonight, I drafted the pattern using my measurements (waist way bigger than I remember thank you bread pudding), with help from Cal Patch's book. I highly recommend this book -- her instructions are so clear and unassuming, it was like having a buddy walk me through the process. Anyway, with Pandora set to Queen and Joni Mitchell, the hours went by, and I now have a pattern for my skirt.

I'm making it knee-length, so I can wear for play but also pair with my navy linen FWK Engineered Garments Landsdown jacket for a summer suit. I'm giving it a slightly wide waistband similar to the Steven Alan ikat skirt, and a sweep somewhere between that piece and the Mociun zigzag.

"Clematis brillante"

And as Cathy and I were looking through my fabric stash, she pulled out a Scandinavian-inspired green pear print fabric that I've had for years. I'm thinking I'll line the waistband and pockets in this fabric, then cover a side button with a piece, to give a hint of the surprise inside.

Next steps: make muslin to check fit, wash and dry linen three times. I was only going to wash it once, but then read some helpful advice on the "Diary of a Sewing Fanatic" blog. I also love the look and feel of soft, slightly crinkly, washed linen...

Oh, and continue to drool over this amazing Japanese linen from Lin-net. Has anyone in the U.S. ordered from this company?

From the very beginning

I'm starting over with a skirt. I've made skirts from patterns before, but none I'm too thrilled with. The first one was made of this crazy girl with cat fabric I picked out, and dressed up with blue rick rack and patch pockets, because more is more. I've put it in the "to donate" box for years, but every time the box fills up and it's ready to go, I grab the skirt back out. It is a relic of my early twenties.

Since patterns can be iffy, I figured that another way to approach this little design project of mine is to study the skirts in my closet that I love to wear, that already fit well. Here they are.


Mociun zigzag skirt

I adore this fabric, and it's by one of my all time favorite designers. It's handprinted. The length is just right. Look at the gathers on the back. It's got a perfect yoke. There's even handmade wooden buttons, which like handmade twigs that have been sawed off. But it's a better skirt in theory than on me. For some reason the crotch bunches. I'm not sure that the center zip fly was necessary.

A.P.C. skirt
I love the bold tomato-coral hue of this piece -- which somehow works with lots of different colors. The amount of detail is enough to make the skirt special, but not ostentatious. It's got great, subtle gathering and angled pockets at front, with a tiny pocket at back. The silky material has a cool drape. I also like that it has a button down front, but the truth is, buttons fall off and then you lose them. Or if you're like me, you're too lazy to sew them back on.

Steven Alan skirt
This one is almost perfect. It has my favorite side pockets ever. I love the fabric - a deep red, ikat linen blend that's breathable and cool but still has some weight. But the best part is the inside. Look at the inside! The seams are sexy. But it's a bit too short. And the waist is a tad tight. It is almost perfect.

I pulled out a book on pattern making that I bought a while ago at the fabric shop in West Concord, Mass., all the way back when Danny and I were house hunting there.The first project is an A-line skirt. I'm going to tackle making the perfect skirt. With a little help from Cal Patch's Design-It-Yourself Clothes, and a poodle.

Design dreams

I think I've wanted to design my own wardrobe since I was four and saw Cinderella. I remember being obsessed with a big gown with little bows at the bottom of the skirt that brought up the hem, exposing hints of a petticoat underneath. I sketched up this dress over and over, in the different colors I would want to wear, and then I think I must have seen pictures in a book of fairytales or Renaissance women, because then I started accessorizing the sketches with those conical dunce-like hats -- the ones with the fabric flowing out of the top. I adored paper dolls, and one Christmas my mom even bought me a Fashion Plates set. It was the best thing ever. If I see one come up on ebay I think I might have to buy it.

I still dream of designing my own wardrobe and making all my own clothes. But instead of princess gowns, I fantasize about clothes that would fit my life--and the practicalities of a woman in her thirties that still wants to express her creativity and style--but above all, be comfortable and feel herself. Ok, that sounds a bit like a branding statement for Eileen Fisher or something. So I'll be a bit more specific:

For example, I would love to have:

--A dress that I would wear romping in the yard with Alex the poodle. It would have pockets for hands, treats, and sunglasses, and the material would be such that dirt and pawprints would rub off easily or I could toss it into the wash. But it must be cuddle-friendly, not stiff. The skirt would be long enough so I could bend over and pick up a ball without worrying. But it would not be so long as to look matronly. It could be worn over pants, leggings, or bare; and layered under sweaters or over t-shirts.

--Everyday pants that feel and fit like yoga pants. I.e. pants that can be worn to work, the movies, brunch... Lululemon is onto something with those groove pants, or my favorite, the still pant - a relaxed, straight leg, trouser like pant with pockets that looks to be discontinued. There must be a way to make a similarly comfortable, flattering pant in a wool jersey for winter, and maybe a light indigo chambray for spring. They would need a wide waistband and a bit of stretch in the fabric, but there must, MUST, be a way.

I also dream about clothes in the movies. I am a sucker for clothes inspired by favorite films, and have purchased more than one dress named after "Roman Holiday" (not the greatest movie, but gotta love Audrey in that jumper and Vespa). One of my favorite clothing lines, FWK by Engineered Garments, is named after the Connecticut estate of another Hepburn, the Great Kate.

This is not to say that I only think about clothes. I am gainfully employed and need to be. I have a husband and a mortgage. I also think that at some point I would like to give birth and write a novel.

There are a few obstacles. While I can sew, I'm no means a master of the craft. I didn't finish my suit in the one patternmaking class I took. The muslin is crumpled up in a bag in my closet. Aside from my career, where I can be focused to a fault, I tend to throw myself into projects and not finish them.

But this is a space where I am allowing myself to naively dream about creating, to obsess a little over something of small consequence... like when I was four... and then, create. Rather than adding more filler (to both my closet and the blog-o-sphere), my hope is to simplify. As I was clearing out my closet, I realized that most of my many, many clothes are duplicates of essentially, the same five or so simple shapes. If I could find a way to create the perfect templates in those shapes that I love, and replicate them in delicious fabrics for each season, I'd be set. And then maybe, just maybe, I could put this obsession to bed.

Welcome to House Poodle

Now that we've established our presence, we need a sigil. Got to get on this. In the meantime, some inspiration from the best show currently on TV.